We plaster for homeowners, landlords and commercial properties across Haywards Heath and Mid Sussex, and down to Brighton and Hove. Some jobs are one room. Some are a whole floor.
What we plaster
| Background | What it usually needs |
|---|---|
| New plasterboard | Joints taped, then a two-coat skim |
| Old plaster in good condition | Prepared, then skimmed |
| Old plaster that's blown or cracked | Loose areas cut out and patched, or the wall stripped and re-plastered |
| Bare brick or block | An undercoat to straighten the wall, then a finish coat |
| Textured ceilings | Sealed and skimmed, or overboarded first |
The job is rarely just one of these. An extension might have new board on the ceiling, bare block on the new walls and old plaster on the wall it shares with the house. Each surface gets the treatment it needs, and they all have to finish up level with each other.
Starting with the background
What's behind the plaster decides how it's done. Plasterboard is the simplest: scrim tape over the joints, then two thin coats of finish plaster, trowelled up smooth. That's a skim. You'll find more on skimming walls and ceilings on its own page.
Bare masonry is different. Brick and block walls are rarely flat enough to take a thin skim, so they get a thicker undercoat first, ruled off straight, then a finish coat on top. That's the traditional float and set plastering, and it's still the right choice for plenty of walls.
Old plaster is where the judgement comes in. If it's sound, it can be skimmed. If you tap it and it sounds hollow, it's come away from the wall behind, and skimming over it just traps the problem. Those areas need cutting out and building back up first.
Ceilings
Ceilings are harder work than walls, and they show every flaw when the light hits them from a window. A sound ceiling can be skimmed. A ceiling with a long crack, a sag, or old lath and plaster that's starting to let go is usually better overboarded: new plasterboard screwed through to the joists, then skimmed. It's cleaner than pulling the old ceiling down, and you end up with a flat, solid surface. There's more on overboarding cracked ceilings if that sounds like your ceiling.
Textured finishes are a job of their own. See our page on smoothing Artex ceilings.
Corners, edges and openings
Good plastering is mostly in the details. Metal or PVC angle beads go on the external corners so they're straight and won't chip the first time a hoover catches them. Stop beads give a clean edge where plaster meets a window frame or a different surface. Window reveals are set square. Around sockets and switches, the back boxes need to be in and at the right depth before we start, or the plates won't sit flat afterwards.
Before we start: what to sort out first
A bit of planning saves a lot of mess:
- Get the first fix done. Cables, back boxes and pipework should be in place before plastering, not chased in afterwards.
- Deal with damp. Plaster won't cure damp. If a wall is wet, the cause needs fixing first, or the new plaster will stain and blow.
- Clear what you can. We'll sheet floors and cover what's left, but a clear room is quicker to work in.
- Think about the ceiling. If you're plastering the walls, it's usually worth doing the ceiling at the same time while the room is already empty.
Extensions, renovations and new rooms
On extension work, we usually come in once the builder has finished the structure, the windows are in and the electrician and plumber have done their first fix. On a renovation, there's more stripping out and making good, and some walls may need taking right back. Our renovation plastering page goes into that in more detail.
Loft conversions and garage conversions are mostly new board, so they're largely boarding and skimming. See plasterboarding and dot and dab.
Older houses
Haywards Heath has a real mix of housing, from Victorian villas built after the railway arrived in the 1840s to post-war estates and new builds. Older solid-walled houses can have lime plaster on the inside, and that matters. Gypsum plaster on a damp solid wall can trap moisture and fail. If we think a wall shouldn't be finished with gypsum, we'll tell you, rather than skim over it and leave you with a problem a year later.
Drying and decorating
New plaster goes on dark and dries to an even light pink. Until the whole wall is that colour, it isn't ready. A skim on plasterboard can dry within days in a warm, ventilated room. A thick undercoat on masonry takes a good deal longer. Keep windows cracked open and resist the urge to blast the heating, because forcing it dry can cause cracking.
When it's dry, the first coat should be a mist coat: watered-down matt emulsion that soaks into the plaster and seals it. Vinyl paints sit on the surface and can peel off fresh plaster.
Frequently asked questions
How long does fresh plaster take to dry?
It depends on the thickness, the background and the room. A skim on board is quickest; thick undercoats on masonry take longest. When the plaster has turned an even light pink all over, it's dry.
Can you plaster over painted walls?
Often, yes, as long as the paint and the plaster underneath are sound. The surface needs the right preparation first so the new plaster grips.
Do I need to empty the room?
It helps. We'll sheet the floor and cover anything left, but the more space there is, the quicker the job goes.
Can you plaster just one wall?
Yes. Single walls, whole rooms and full houses are all part of the job.
Do you plaster commercial properties?
Yes. We plaster homes, rental properties and commercial premises.
Do you give free quotes?
Yes. Call, WhatsApp or send an enquiry with a few photos, and we'll come back to you with a free quote.
Plastering coming up?
Tell us what you're planning and send a few photos if you have them. We'll let you know what the walls and ceilings need and give you a free quote. You can also see everything we plaster and render.
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